torihei

torihei
Originally uploaded by bluepupae.

torihei specializes in yakitori and oden dishes. the lightness and warmth of the oden pairs well with the fat and smokiness of yakitori. though you can easily find good yakitori at several places in the area, i'd never had oden until torihei.

we started with the daikon oden, a delicate section of braised daikon topped with seaweed and a generous helping of bonita slivers waving about in a light broth. the subtle sweetness of daikon spoke comfort and reminded me of some of the squash and melon soups my mom use to make. some people seem to think this is bland, but i think it is in the nature of this dish to be subtle and accent the more natural flavor of the daikon. a strong broth would have overpowered it.

then came the beef tongue, which was surprisingly tender and juicy. of the izakaya places i've eaten, i think this is the best preparation of beef tongue. so simple. so good. it didn't need any seasoning. just the flavor of beef with a hint of wasabi.

in terms of flavor, the fish cake oden, was stronger than the daikon, being sweet with a slightly chewy texture and subtle hints of the sea. this one definitely tastes homemade.

i recommend the chicken thighs--also tender, juicy, and the not surprisingly flavorful half raw egg with cod roe. eggs are delicious. also excellent are the petite tomatoes, which consist of grilled cherry tomatoes bursting with sweetness and slathered with sauteed garlic. the shitake mushrooms, which come with bonita flakes, are one of the better preparations i've had. some places burn it, and it ends up being bitter.

i liked the combination of crunchy and soft rice in the "robata" rice ball, a fried triangle of onigiri seasoned with soy sauce. the whole shrimp on skewer, was probably my least favorite. i enjoyed the grilled flavor of the shrimp, but it was not especially exciting for the price compared to the other dishes.

overall, i found torihei to be skilled in preparation of the foods. i like the yakitori at shinsengumi and kappo honda, but sometimes, some of the skewers have partly burnt bits which add bitterness. i was impressed with how even the cooking was on the skewers here. the whole restaurant has a refined air to it even though it's not particularly fancier than any other japanese restaurant in the area. service was friendly and good. if you get there early, there may be little to no wait.