coi
Originally uploaded by bluepupae. #25 on my 101 in 1001 list (44/143)
at first glance, i didn't recognize many of the ingredients on the menu at coi, which are sourced from local producers. unusual descriptions which apply more to things found on a nature walk than food, combined with the distinct presentation of mostly vegetarian, minimalist food intrigued me, serving to slow and enhance the experience of eating.
our AMUSE BOUCHE consisted of milk & honey packaged in a transparent membrane. a nectar of milk and honey oozes comfort and some sweetness into your mouth. not sure about it being room temperature though.
with the first course, PINK GRAPEFRUIT (ginger, tarragon, black pepper), which looked like a small white cloud atop smaller pieces of grapefruit, comes with a drop of essential oil which is applied to the wrist for comparison. dominant flavors were fragrant citrus tartness from the grapefruit & tarragon. the combination of taste and aroma were nice- with aroma being the foreplay to the more intense flavors. by itself, i wonder if the flavors would have been more subtle.
the martian landscape that was our third course, called EARTH AND SEA (new harvest potatoes, cucumber, borage, sea beans, ice plant flowers), was almost too pretty to eat. the tiniest potatoes i've ever seen cooked to creaminess were huddled against greens, pink flowers atop a vinegar-y squid ink dyed chunks of cucumber. drizzled with grassy olive oil. fragrant, simple flavors, tasty!
an investigation of architecture, INVERTED ANDANTE DAIRY GOAT CHEESE TART (black olive, vadouvan, preserved lemon, wild arugula) consisted of a canti-levered wonton made from black olive atop creamy goat cheese and littered with bits of preserved lemon & arugula.
haiku-like, WINTER INTO SPRING (chilled english pea soup, buttermilk snow, mint), pairs simple, natural flavors--sweet, fresh peas, tart buttermilk & aromatic mint--with a twist on temperature. all i want to know is how you turn buttermilk into snow.
taking all that is good about fried chicken and packaging it in small tater tot-like cubes of intense flavor, the FRIED CHICKEN CONSOMME (artichokes, fava beans, radish, green garlic) is a good thing if it makes me feel like i don't need to work out after eating it. crunchy on the outside, with a gravy-like inside. garnishes added texture. the bf doesn't eat meat, so they made him roasted mushrooms with mayo. i definitely got the better option.
the SAUTEED MONTEREY BAY ABALONE (escarole, caper berry-sea lettuce vinaigrette) was a little hard to slice, but not as chewy as i thought it would be. it sits atop some cooked escarole and an emulsified vinaigrette. seasoned well, with slightly caramelized skin.
a bite of the MORELS (burnt rice, ash, smoke, pine) is like a walk in the forest. earthy, fragrant green, slightly salty. i overheard one of the servers explain the molecular evolution of this dish. even if i remembered, you'd be thinking huh? as well. if you like mushrooms, this dish refines them for a delicately flavored course. plenty of interesting textures as well.
slightly rare, the MARIN SUN FARMS GOAT (sprouted seeds/nuts/beans, wheatgrass) was surprisingly healthy (and not gamey at all) for a meat dish. tender meat, delicately prepared, with crunchy nuts and beans. a combination of perfectly runny yolk and buttery foam, the bf's SLOW COOKED EGG (farro, chard, brown butter)--a meatless sub--was quite good too!
after the previous courses, the few slices of COMTE with lightly coated lettuce leaves was a bit underwhelming, although the cheese was good.
the intercourse of BEET juice puree atop a creamy powder was sweet, slightly tart and salty
couldn't taste the olive oil in the OLIVE OIL SHORTCAKE (strawberry-rhubarb, lemon balm, long pepper), but the combination of fruits were prominent in flavor--sweet, tart, salty
the WHITE CHOCOLATE SEMI-FROZEN (brooks cherry, lime thyme) is a creamy white pillar accented by soft little thyme leaves, tangy sweet cherries in syrup, and crumbly cake
the crunchy cookie crumbles coating the CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES were the dominant texture and flavor. texture was more interesting than flavor. along with the truffles, we ended our meal with OLIVE OIL VANILLA bean milk shake. the olive oil added another layer of creamy complexity.
healthy, light, earthy, the cuisine at coi seems the kind of food forest elves would eat. some looked strange, but the flavors were familiar, often combining savory with sweet and tartness. some flavor combos were better than others, but none were off. each course delicately crafted.
they only offer a tasting menu-no a la carte & small portions. for me, grazing on ten courses over three hours was sufficiently filling, but i don't recommend coming here starving. kudos for cloth towels in the bathroom & interesting artwork on the walls, which appeared to be photograms of cross-sections of food in black and white. excellent service. more silverware than you know what to do with.
